CNC TALENT ARTICLE
Credits: CNC-P&M
The young Lyon-based start-up Cuir Marin de France is bringing fish skins to the market under its brand Ictyos (from the Greek "fish"). It is the first tannery to be supported by Au-Delà du Cuir (ADC), the development aid program for businesses in the French leather industry.
A TRIO OF MOTIVATED ENTREPRENEURS
Gauthier Lefébure and Benjamin Malatrait met at ESCOM (École Supérieure de Chimie Organique et Minérale). The former started in plastics and adhesives, while the latter worked as a consultant in financing and strategy for innovative projects. "We didn't want to be engineers sitting in front of a computer!", they emphasize in unison. We started thinking together about valorizing an existing resource." The recovery of fish skins - from the food industry, restaurateurs, sushi bars, and fish farms - quickly became apparent. "Only 20-30% of fish waste is reused to feed animals or generate energy via methanation," explains Gauthier. We carried out our first tests in a garage..." With the arrival of Emmanuel Fourault, a business engineer, the trio refined their business creation project and defined the strategic axes of the future tannery. "When we started, we knew nothing about leather," Emmanuel continues. We turned to CTC in Lyon, which was a decisive link. We followed a two-day general training course, then six months for the industrial development of the project." The success of a crowdfunding campaign (€100,000 in thirty days) finally convinced the three partners to take the plunge.
FISH SKINS AND GREEN CHEMISTRY
Located on the outskirts of Lyon, the new tannery has repurposed old machines (fleshing machine, drums, staking machine to soften the skin, rotary press for finishing...). "Fish skin is a homogeneous, durable product," emphasizes Benjamin. We named the fish skins we recover and process SQUAMA® (from the Greek "scale")." ICTYOS Cuir Marin de France began by tanning salmon, carp, and sturgeon, "little-known skins, very visually distinctive." According to "tanner" Gauthier, "the transformation is quite similar to sheepskin but requires delicacy, like for lizard." While thin, fish leather is no less strong. "At equal thickness, the resistance is the same as crocodile leather," Gauthier continues. The mechanical resistance is due to intertwined collagen fibers. Those of crocodile, on the contrary, are parallel."
FUTURE PROSPECTS
Innovation is at the heart of this young artisanal and eco-responsible company, with an average age of 24. "We have identified two categories of clients: luxury and young artisan leather goods makers," explains Emmanuel, who is responsible for prospecting, trade shows, and customer relations. Young businesses are very sensitive to our ethical commitment. Watchmaking is a very relevant segment. Its specifications are draconian. If we can win over brands, we can democratize our expertise. Our SQUAMA® product has an exotic look at a more affordable price." Barely launched, Ictyos Cuir Marin de France has set its goals: to produce between 1000 and 2000 salmon skins per week (or the equivalent in other skins) and to process a new species each year. The small team is also researching how to diversify the aesthetics of vegetable tanning and to dye, for example, without artificial colorants.